Mountain bike maintenanceNow that you’ve warmed up and made some easy mountain bike setup tips with the saddle and brake controls in Part 1, let’s dig a bit deeper and take a more technical look at the not-so-easy MTB setup tips.

Handlebar and Stem – most MTB manufactures spec out the handlebar and stem for the size frame, likely size of the rider, and the intended use of the mountain bike.  As this is a good starting point for most MTB riders, tweaking the stem and handlebar sizes to perfectly match your torso, arm length, and riding style can improve your mountain bike performance.

If your goal is to maximize your climbing ability, using a long stem between 90 to 120 mm with a low rise angle of less than 10 degrees creates a powerful pedaling position, and keeps more weight upfront for climbing.  To keep you nicely stretched out, a flat or 1-inch rise bar is best.

If descending or jumping off the sides of mountains is your MTB game, 40 to 70 mm stems work well.  This gives you greater control of your mountain bike and makes it easier to move back in the saddle during steep trails.  Use a bar with 1.5 to 2.5 inches of rise and/or stem with 10 to 15 degrees of rise.

Remember, long stems work well with a low angle rise, and short stems work well with a high angle rise.  As a general rule, the longer the stem, the more unstable the mountain bike becomes so don’t overdo it here. 

Take note of this if you’re going to buy a mountain bike.  A larger frame is more stable but gives you less to work with on stem/handlebar combinations.  A good mountain bike fit is paramount if you’re looking for maximum performance from your MTB power plant.

For handlebar width, ask your local bike dealer if you can ride a few MTBs out in the parking lot with different handlebar widths.  Choose the one that feels the best for your riding style.

Gearing – if you’re a XC mountain biker, you have 27-gears to work with so this topic is a mute point for you.

For the downhiller, use one chainring with a chain guide.  For tighter ratios, better shifting, and extra ground clearance, it’s best to use a small front chainring between 36 to 40 teeth and a closer road cluster between 11 to 25 teeth for the rear cassette. 

You’ll need a tall gear fast enough to go full speed without spinning out, and one low enough to get out of the gate quick.  Typically, your low and high gears are not used.  If perfection is what you’re striving for, try adjusting your derailleur to block out the high and low-end gears you don’t want.

Clipless Pedals – if you’re serious about XC mountain bike riding, purchasing clipless pedals is a no brainer.  With a significant increase in power from your hip flexors and hamstring muscles, most XC mountain bikers surrender their cash for this upgrade. 

Be sure to adjust the pedal tension as to allow adequate twist movement from your mountain bike shoes.  Not enough twist movement or too much can lead to knee pain.  Testing the tension is the best answer here.

Be mindful to keep your knees relatively close to the frame when pedaling.  Wide, spread-out knees during the pedal stroke places additional stress on the knees.

Tires – although you can ride different tires for race courses diverse in terrain and conditions, choosing one set based on your most used riding style will keep it simple and cost effective.

Mountain bike tires which use soft rubber compounds have a higher rolling resistance but greater traction on the corners.  Tires with thick casings reduce the likelihood of pinch flats with improved durability, but are heavier so expect to pay a bit with slower times.

Some mountain bike tires are molded with both hard center knobs and soft side knobs, which provide the best of both worlds.  Choose the riding style you want to focus on, than choose the tire casings and compounds to get you there may be the best approach.

For hard pack trails, semislick tires with many tiny, closely spaced knobs keeps you fast and your next meal that much sooner.  If medium, widely spaced knobs with sticky rubber are part of your tire choice, then everything from dirt to rocks to roots, mud and concrete are on your MTB riding menu.  For those looking for muddy soup rides, spike tire grips will get you home.

For tire pressure, start out with high pressure and work your way down during your riding breaks.  Find what works best for your body weight and the riding terrain.  Keep a tire pressure gauge with you and note the air pressure reading that feels best. 

Remember, as air heats, it expands so your tire pressure will increase during your mountain bike ride.  If you train at 7:00 am in the morning, but race during midday with higher temperatures, checking your tire pressure is a good idea.

In the last and final Part 3 of the MTB setup series, we’ll focus on the fun part…the suspension system setup adjustments.  With these MTB setup adjustments, you are one step closer to an improved mountain bike riding experience.

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